Cambodia

Introduction

The ruins of the ancient city of Angkor, capital of the Khmer kingdom from 802 until 1295 A.D., are one of the world's marvels. The "City of Kings," Angkor boasts some of the largest religious monuments ever constructed; it's a vast and mysterious complex of hulking laterite and sandstone blocks. Unknown to the world until French naturalist Henri Mouhot literally stumbled onto it in 1861, the area of Angkor existed for centuries only as a myth -- a wondrous city (or cities, to be exact), its exact location in the Cambodian jungle unknown. After Mahout in 1861, archaeologists flocked here, only to be foiled by years of conflict that left the temples in the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Many temples were damaged and pillaged. Tourists were the subsequent invaders, from the late 1990s. Today the sight is mobbed, but you can still find those quiet moments in communion with this amazing man-made wonder.

The temple complex covers some 97 sq. km (60 sq. miles) and carries the remains of passageways, moats, temples, and palaces that represent centuries of building in the capital. Days spent scrambling about and exploring the temples are memorable, and this is a great place to bring adventurous kids of all ages who like to get their play clothes dirty.

The temples are served by the nearby town of Siem Reap, some 6km (3 1/2 miles) to the south. Siem Reap means "Victory over the Thais" and refers to the 16th-century victory that solidified the Khmer kingdom -- though animosity between the two neighbors remains to this day. All of western Cambodia was once under Thai control, and Khmer people are very proud of their survival in the face of so many invaders, the very reason that an image of Angkor Wat graces the national flag.

Siem Reap, once just a dusty track with a few storefronts, now supports a host of large five-star hotels and resorts, fine-dining options aplenty, and the kind of good services, shops, galleries, and spas, that make the little city a new oasis of luxury in parched western Cambodia. The town's central market is a great stop for souvenir purchases, and the nearby downtown area is abuzz day and night with fine-dining options and quaint bars and party spots.

A 3 or 4 days visit will suffice (though many do it in less time) to come away with a newfound love for ancient cultures, Asian religions, and sunsets. Good options abound for visiting more far-flung temple ruins (in fact, one of the most common complaints is about the large crowds that now visit Cambodia's "Disneyland of Temples") and trekking or boat trips to remote mangrove swamps and a large bird sanctuary are enough to keep you busy for a stay of any length. Bring your sense of adventure, your camera, and a youthful sense of wonder. You won't be disappointed by amazing Angkor.

Siem Reap, known for Angkor Wat, one of the greatest religious monuments in the world. Besides the temples of Angkor, Siem Reap is a quiet and pleasant town, offering promenades along the river and around the old market. Excursions to the fascinating floating villages, sunset cruises, tours to the inundated forest or the bird reserve of Prek Tuol are to be combined with a tour to the temples.

Some temples have been lately re-opened to tourism, such as the fabulous Preah Vihear Temple.  Well over 100 km to the North-East of Angkor, on the Thai border, Preah Vihear Temple (or Prasat Phra Viharn) dates from the beginning of the 11th century. It dominates the plain from its prominent position in the Dangrek Mountains at an altitude of more than 700 m and was only returned to Cambodia by a ruling of the International Court of Justice in The Hague in 1963 (previously occupied by the Thais). At 1h30 from there is Anlong Veng: the Khmer Rouge leaders used Anlong Veng as their last strong hold and hideout in this remote area, along the Cambodian/Thai border. It reveals the remains of Pol Pot's (Khmer Rouge Leader No. 1) house and burial site, built in close range of man made artificial lakes. The rainy season from May to October complicates the visit of temples in remote areas.

In the same area is Koh Ker. The road has recently been renewed and is now subject to a toll.  The old capital of ruler Jayavarman IV is located North and can be visited in one day from Siem Reap. Beng Melea is a huge 12th century temple complex, 40 km east of Bayon, which was completely ruined even though it was built at about the same time as Angkor Wat. Very secluded located, to the North-West of Siem Reap, is the rarely visited Banteay Chhmar temple, one of the capitals of Jayavarman II. It was rebuilt by Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his sons who were killed in battle repelling a Cham invasion in 1177.

Deep in the jungle, a visit of secluded Kbal Spean, known as the river of the Thousand Lingas, is highly recommended. The rocks of the river have been carved (11th-13th Century), which gives it a magical touch.

The second largest city in Cambodia, Battambang is located in a rich and fertile plain. The Sangker River flows through the town center, which is filled with interesting colonial architecture. The region has numerous Angkorian and post-Angkorian sites. Some of the most interesting are the Wat Ek (11th C. - Suryavarman I),Wat Toul Baset (7th C.) and Phnom Banon. The less visited regions are located in the North of the country. Tropical lush jungle covers the mountain areas, hiding the rich wildlife in its grandiose sceneries. Trips are difficult or even impossible during the rainy season... Mondolkiri is the largest province geographically but also the least populated. Around Sen Monorom, capital of the province, there are 11 different hill tribes, each with a distinct language, culture and traditions.